HOW TO CUT AND SEW PENCIL TROUSER

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Until this time trouser was men’s wear only; now both women and men wear trousers. Trousers can be made in a number of different fabrics, including wool, tweed, linen, crepe, jersey and denim. They can be slightly hard to create because they require many accurate measurements and some dedicated time to properly craft them. In order to make trouser, you need to be familiar with fundamental stitches and sewing machine use. Trouser can be of different types but as far as this article is concern, am going to discuss about pencil trouser (so to say).


Below are the steps to be taken in cut and sew of pencil trouser.

Step one

Measurement :

a. Trouser length: using a fabric measurement tape, stretch it from the start of the waist to the ankle. As shown above in label I.
b. Trouser waist: stretch the tape round the waist as shown above in label II.
c. Trouser hip: stretch the tape round the circumference of the hip from the widest point of the hip as shown above in label III
d. Trouser thigh: stretch the tape round the circumference at the widest point of the thigh as shown above in label IV
e. Trouser half length: stretch the tape start from the waist to the knee as shown above in label V
f. Trouser ankle: stretch the tape round the ankle as shown above in label VI


 Step two

Cutting:-

From the above measurements, let's assume the following figures;
Trouser length = 42
Trouser waist = 34
Trouser hip = 38
Trouser thigh = 25
Trouser half length = 22
Trouser ankle = 17
All measurements are in inches.
Now, to cut the front side;

a. Trouser length is 42
Note; add 2 to the length measured for folding allowance. Therefore, length is 44
b. Trouser waist is 34
Note; divide the waist measured into four and then add 2 (sewing allowance) to it, to make up the front side.
34/4 = 8½ + 2 = 10½,
Therefore, front side is 10½.
c. Trouser hip is 38
Note; for general case, hip measured always rime with the front side calculated except for those that have big bottom, and in that case use the hip measured to determine the front side.
d. Trouser thigh is 25
Note; before you locates the thigh, measure the flap first which is 9½ for length 40-45, 9 for length 35-39, 8½ for length 30-34.
After measured the flap, divide the measured thigh into 2, which is 12½.
e. Trouser half length is 22
Note; to locate the trouser half length, minus the band from it. Band can be 1½ or 2; for this I choose 1½. Therefore, half length is 21 including ½ sewing allowance.
f. Trouser ankle is 14
Note; divide it into 2, which is 7.
Sewing allowance for the trouser thigh and ankle will be added to the back side of the trouser.
Now to cut the back side;

Just place the front side cut as shown above to cut the back side
>Remember, nobody knows all. Anybody is free to contribute.
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